The conspiracy
of surfing


I'm drawn to the road, the waiting, the silence and the anticipation. To the way the landscape abandons its role as a backdrop and becomes a character in its own right. What unfolds before my eyes shapes my state of mind. The sea becomes an excuse. It may simply be the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

It is the temperature of the water, the sand beneath my feet on a sunny winter's day. It´s stuff like this that makes me want to return to these colours and these gestures. The curve of a surfboard tucked under my arm, or the nervous feeling before paddling out into a bigger swell, are all part of a constellation of moments that keep me hooked on the journey.